In a world of excessively processed foods, Split, like much of Croatia, has opted to remain largely focused on its freshly prepared local dishes. Let’s hope it stays that way. While other port cities may use their influx of tourism to expand restaurant styles and flavors, the food here is mainly catered to the palates of those who live in the area. Therefore, expect a lot of fresh grilled fish and black calamari (usually served with risotto), as well as a profusion of other seafood options. Carnivores will likely encounter Prsut (thinly sliced ham) and Cevapi (minced and rolled pork, beef, etc.), as well as a large selection of stewed meats and the omnipresent Croatian pizza. And don’t worry, Vegetarians; there are delicious options (Makrovega being one of the best) for you too.
Now, about where to go. Since most of the visiting population spends the bulk of its time meandering the streets of Old Town and the Riva promenade, this is where you’ll find the highest concentration of eateries. And don’t worry; while you might think that prices will be significantly more expensive here, good deals on good food (Buffet Fife, for example) can still be found, along with plenty of cheap pizza stands. During the summer months, you’ll want to grab an outdoor table (don’t worry, most restaurants have plenty of them available) to soak up both the beautiful Croatian weather as well as some prime people watching. You can also duck into the many konoba (cellar) restaurants, which are a dime a dozen in Croatia but can sometimes surprise you with their quality. 3 names to remember will be Konoba Hvaranin, Konoba Varos and Konoba Marjan if this relaxed atmosphere seems more your style.
For fresh seafood lovers, get to the Split Fish Market (located in the square near ul. Marmontova) early for the best catch of the day. And by early, we mean right around 6:30 am. Of course, for you late risers in search of a deal, you can stop by after 12 pm to find a great bargain on whatever fish might be left. Nearby you’ll also encounter one of the city’s staple seafood restaurants: Nostromo. Though it’s true you can find a great meal here, for the price you’ll pay you may be better off losing the fame and atmosphere and enjoying equally good fish at less-renowned restaurants. But the choice is yours. Enjoy the tastier side of this Dalmatian/Diocletian metropolis.