Long celebrated as one of the most beautiful islands on Earth (it was a refuge for Roman emperors thousands of years ago), Capri is a resort haven for tourists willing to pay top dollar to temporarily enjoy a gorgeous slice of Italy. For those of you willing to fork over the money for the sort of island paradise pampering on tap in many of the resorts found here, we probably won’t have much for you. On the other hand, if you’d like to enjoy a side of Capri not yet exploited by rampant tourism, then read on.
Reputed as the Isle of Sirens from Roman lore and the setting of wild orgies by the Roman elite, you’ll probably have a tamer time on Capri and still be satisfied. You may encircle the four square mile island both by boat and on foot; we suggest both. Some great sights accessible by sea are the Faraglione Rocks, a magnificent rock formation in the water and the tiny Blue Grotto, which is best viewed at low tide and during times when tourists may be busy elsewhere (otherwise the wait to row into a small, but lovely, cave will turn into a frustrating , watch-checking experience). Then again, you could always just check out the jagged cliffs and various views from the water. A note: our handsome Italian team members took this tour in 2002 and avoided the overcrowded tour boats by simply paying a clearly distinguishable local with an outboard motor and a lifetime of stories to tell about Capri. Of course, you need to be careful who you agree to ride with, but some great cliff jumping and sightseeing may await you if you choose this slightly more risky route.
For further adventure ashore, there are plenty of footpaths that lead between communes worn by local fisherfolk that will often go to the water’s edge and over some of the more attractive terrain beyond the tourist mill. Monte Solano is also worth a chairlift ride, or the moderate walk to its summit to see the bays on both sides and the abandoned Fortino di Bruto. Even if you do the usual views from the Belvedere di Tragara (a magnificently beautiful view) in Capri Town, at least do the mile-long walk from Piazza Umberto I to Via Tragara.
The biggest issue you'll find with Capri is its highly expensive price tag, even in low season. If you can get to the island for even a day trip (via hydrofoil from Naples, perhaps), that may be your best chance of avoiding the cost of accommodation.