A tiny, revived neighborhood in the historic Altındağ ("Old Ankara") district, Hamamönü is a place the city has done much to restore and maintain, linking the modern world with classic Ottoman architecture and heritage. One stroll along a few blocks of pedestrian pathways between pristinely kept pearl-colored, chocolate-trimmed houses and you'll be giddy with fantasies of a time centuries past.
The main boulevard is known as "art street" (Sanat Street), where artisans sell their wares outside of refurbished workshops. Contemporary restaurants and cafes are quite common, while a number of local institutions have also gotten a face lift. The Mehmet Akif Ersoy Culture Park and Museum is a highly-regarded attraction in the former home of the writer who penned Turkey's national anthem, while mosques like the 600 year old Haci Musa or the Sarikadi Cami are worth a stop.
Although the neighborhood makeover was conducted for the sake of tourism, it's hard not to enjoy a taste of Ankara's past. Sitting at a cafe and listening to local music on the street on the weekend may even allow you to forget your transience in the city for a moment and just enjoy the small pleasures of travel.